Low Output from motor using pedal assist?
If you think you are experiencing low output from the motor, one quick check to do is make sure the bike is turned on and powered up completely before you start pedaling. If you are riding the bike and turn the bike on, you may experience low output. If that does not resolve it, resetting the display as described below would be the next step. You can also take pictures of all settings and share them with us.
No power to the motor? Throttle non-responsive and PAS not working?
If throttle is working, but PAS is not, please contact us.
This is no doubt the most frustrating problem to have, oftentimes on arrival after wires/connections shake loose in transit. Don’t worry, we will resolve this together with some troubleshooting.
If you can access a 2nd 48V ebike you can sometimes expedite the resolution:
- Do you own 2 ebikes?
- Does your local bike shop have ebikes? (bike shops with ebikes commonly test some components this way, it may be faster to do some basic troubleshooting as described below, before taking yours into the shop)
- Do you know anyone with an ebike? (it is even worth asking your friends on Facebook as it can save a lot of time)
If you do have access to a 2nd ebike of the same voltage, please review the Advanced Ebike Troubleshooting support page.
Background Information (If you need to contact us, please answer the questions below to get ahead and a quicker resolution)
- Is there an error code on the Display? They may only show up immediately after the error occurs and not be on the screen later, though the motor will remain non-functioning. An error code number between 20-30 will be showing. Error codes are often very helpful in expediting the resolution.
- Did anything recently happen that may be related to the issue?
- Is your battery fully seated and secured?
- Did you recently change settings in the display? (if yes, please explain) Please reset your display as described below and change nothing.
- Did you recently remove the rear tire? (if yes, please explain)
- Did you recently disconnect any cables or did they get caught on anything while moving, storing or transporting the bike? (if yes, please explain, it could expedite the resolution)
- Did you drop, crash, or hit something with the bike? (if yes, please explain) Even if you barely hit something, a curb, a car mirror, etc. It could help us identify the cause.
- Have you ridden up any steep, long hills using throttle for an extended period? (if yes, please explain and estimate the angle and length of the hill. (Was it 10°, 15°, 20°, 30°etc? )
- Did you continue to use PAS after stalling out on a hill or coming to a complete stop? (if yes, please explain)
We can troubleshoot this issue with you, but there will be multiple things to check. Please take your time and be thorough. If a step is not completed thoroughly, it could result in checking additional items when the one of the 1st steps would have resolved it.
A. Does your display have power?
Try resetting your display settings to the factory default using the video below. Then test the throttle and PAS again.
- 0:50 Reset display - Often one of the first steps to take when troubleshooting any problem -With the bike on, display at the main screen, hold the middle (Power) and top (+) button on your display at the same time. Select reset to default 'yes' and hold the middle button to enter that setting.
LMT’D *Old version: Display Model: APT TFT 500C Manual PDF
B. Check all exterior cables, carefully disconnect, inspect both ends, properly align and carefully reconnect. Then test the throttle and PAS again.
Look for any cable that is damaged, discolored, pinched, or becomes tight as you turn the handlebars left and right.
The numbers below correspond to the numbered areas in the picture above:
1. Please remove the rubber cover, inspect the wire for damage on all sides (TOP, LEFT, BOTTOM, RIGHT) and send pictures of this area. Depending on how the damage happened, it may be cut in a different location from what is shown below. The picture below on the right is an example of a wire that has been cut due to neglect while changing a flat and removing the rear wheel.
2. Please send a picture of this connection. The chainstay (near the rear wheel) has a 9-pin motor cable connector, it has arrows for alignment and should be firmly seated.
3. The cable in this area needs to be inspected for damage. If the wire is not properly routed and zip-tied (pro-tip, re-usable velcro strap for computer wires works perfect) the tire or chain ring could rub against the wire or brake cable and damage it beyond repair.
4. This area is where the motor wire and brake line enter the frame and should be checked for damage.
5. Please send a picture of this area showing the wires going into the frame. Top of the downtube (just behind the fork as the wires/cables enter the bike frame). If you see thin colorful wires, this is not ideal. They may be pulled too tight and your cable/wire routing may need improved. You should adjust your cable routing so that only the thicker black covers are shown and all thin colorful wires stay inside the frame even when you turn your handle bars left and right. Sometimes this can be achieved by removing the cable wrap, then wrapping it again excluding the front brake cable. All wires here should not be stressed or pulled tight as you turn the handle bars left and right.
6. Wires at handlebars as they connect to the throttle, display and brakes (on some versions).
- Please share an over all picture of the handlebar wiring as well as specific pictures of any connections.
- Many LMT'd have a connection at the back of the display like this. Please share individual pictures of each side so the camera can focus on the holes and pins.
- They should not be stressed or pulled tight as you turn the handle bars left and right. You can inspect each wire as it leaves the component for signs of stress or damage. If they become tight as your turn the handlebars, it is likely you could improve your cable/wire routing.
Examples of damaged wire and bent pin:
C. (To expedite troubleshooting process if capable) Remove the battery, and use the video below to remove the battery panels/housing to access the bike controller.
Controller Access Core-5 & LMT'd: Inspect internal connections
This process can be quick and painless, but it needs to be completed properly, as rushing the process or using the wrong tools could cause a much bigger headache. We have a video for how to access the controller for each of our models below.
Things to consider:
- You'll need a properly sized screw driver, and in most cases, you will need two properly sized + (Phillips) screwdriver bits to remove the battery housing screws easily without stripping them.
- When re-installing, do not force any screw, if you have to force it, it is not aligned or something is in the way and you are likely to cause damage.
Check all internal cables at the internal controller as shown. Ensure all connections are secured and no cables are crushed, discolored, crimped, or torn.
- Display connector
- Throttle connector
- Battery connector
- Motor cable connector
- Torque sensor wire and connections (Please thoroughly inspect and share pictures of connection at controller, full length of wire end to end, and connection near bottom bracket and the origin of the wire from the BB shell).
- Remove the 3 screws shown below to inspect this wire at the Bottom bracket of the bike.
Carefully disconnect, inspect both ends for bent pins or damage, properly align and carefully reconnect.
Be sure to also inspect the full length of the wire for damage.
Please disconnect and take a picture of each end of the connections before aligning them and carefully reconnecting them. Please share the pictures with Support, having clear pictures of each connector can expedite the resolution.
Once all connections have been checked, please contact us with your pictures and findings. Depending on what you find, we may ask you to take more troubleshooting steps before reassembling everything.