Installing your crank arms and pedals, these are the best practices and tips to avoid mistakes:
- Be sure to orient the crank arms in opposite directions (180 degrees apart) when installing.
- Tighten the crank arm bolts to 39nm.
- If they are installed at the wrong orientation to each other, you will need a crank puller tool to remove one, rotate it, and reinstall it. Please see the video at the bottom of this page, it illustrates how to use it.
- Be certain the left crank arm is on the left with the left pedal and the right crank arm is on the right with the right pedal.
- Thread the pedals in by hand to start, carefully, you should not have to force them. Once they are threaded in properly to start and you are certain they are properly aligned, you can use a wrench with a thin head (see picture below) to finish tightening them. Failure to properly thread the pedal into the crank arm will cause cross threading to the crank arm.
- While bike mechanics often use this style shown below, it does not require one this thin. Any wrench no wider than the flats shown here will work properly:
- If you use a wrench that is too wide, it will be in the way as you tighten the pedal. This will cause it to not be fully tightened which can then damage the threads in the crank arm once ridden.
Unfortunately, this is a common assembly error and if your pedal has come off or there is another issue, it is likely due to one of these common mistakes.
Often if installed improperly it results in the crank arm being stripped, at that point the crank arm will need to be replaced. Typically, the pedals are ok, because they have steel threads, where as the crank arm is aluminum and the threads are softer and often damaged beyond repair. Depending on the bike & which side is stripped, you may be able to replace just one. For non-drive side cranks (L) You can order single replacements (make sure it matches your other crank, diamond style or square shown below). The drive side (R)/ Side with chainring, generally come in a set of both Left + Right cranks.
If replacing left or right crank, PLEASE VERIFY, is yours SQUARE or DIAMOND. The new part needs to be the same as the one you have. Or alternatively, both can be replaced, but can be more expensive and you will need a crank puller tool (about $10.00).
500 Series, 700 Series, LMT'D & Roadster Ghost left crank arm diamond:
500 Series, 700 Series & Roadster Ghost Replacement Crankset:
Option 1 (if your chain ring is in good condition) Full Crankset (must swap over existing chainring)
Option 2 (If your chain ring is bent/damaged) Full Crankset with chain ring for 7 or 8 speed bike - Be sure to select 45T when checking out. This is slightly larger than the 44T, but will work with the same chain (If you get a much larger one, you may need a longer chain).
Core-5 & LMT'D (for LMT'D with cadence sensor)
Full Crankset with chain ring for 7 or 8 speed bike - Be sure to select 45T when checking out. This is slightly larger than the 44T, but will work with the same chain (If you get a much larger one, you may need a longer chain).
LMT'D Cranks (for LMT'D w/ Torque sensor):
Some bike shops can drill & tap stripped crank arms, as well as add a threaded insert, however depending on the shop, it may cost less to simply replace the stripped crank(s)
If you have additional questions, please contact us and include info on which bike you have & a photo of the crank arm.
To remove the cranks, review this video: