If you are hearing unusual noises from your rear wheel or your rear wheel is not spinning freely (aka free wheeling), something may just need adjusted or lubricated. Something could potentially be off internally. Before assuming the worst, here are some important procedures to follow:
Section 1: Other Noises
To ensure the noise is not the brake caliper, spokes, fender, or any other component potentially causing the noise, it's important to rule out the other sources:
- Remove the rear brake caliper (to ensure the brakes are not rubbing) It can be secured to the frame away from the moving wheel with a zip tie and the bike carefully tested.
- Remove accessories on and near the rear wheel (reflectors on spokes, fenders, racks, etc)
- Adjust or remove the rear fender (to ensure the rear fender isn't rubbing or that rocks aren't getting stuck between it and the wheel)
- Check the spoke tension, and if the noisy is a clicking, clanging or twangy type of noise, it could likely be spoke tension or broken spokes that are the issue.
- The nuts and spacers on either side of the motor (inside of the drop outs) may be too tight and need adjusted. If this is the case, the wheel may also seem to slow down prematurely. Both the front and rear wheels should spin freely if properly installed and brakes are properly adjusted.
Section 2: Making clear videos of the rear wheel and any noise.
For the fastest resolution, please make 2 videos as described below. 1 of each is ideal, sometimes 1 is enough, but sometimes it is not clear so if you have a friend nearby, please make both. Having both a video with the rider on the bike and off can provide additional insight (IE noise is only present with rider on bike) You can send the file or link to Support@Ride1UP.com:
1st Video with Rider off the bike:
- In a clear work space, in the garage or outside, with the bike unplugged.
- Carefully stand next to the bike on the side with the kick stand. Keep the kick stand down.
- Gently lean the bike towards you so that the bike is balancing on the kick stand and front wheel.
- You can now use the throttle to operate the motor, be careful and make sure you apply the brakes or let the wheel slow down before putting it down.
- If abnormal noise is being made during this video, removing the brake caliper is a great way to rule it out as the cause of the noise.
- This will allow you to record any noise it is making without wind noise and minimal background noise so it can be reviewed by the Ride1UP Support Team.
- If the file is to large to email, you can upload it in the cloud and share a link.
2nd Video with Rider on the bike in a clear safe area:
- Have one person ride the bike, while another person records the rider as they go by demonstrating the noise and issue. This will allow us to clearly hear the noise and minimize wind noise.
- Again, depending on the noise, it may be best to remove the rear brake caliper, zip tie it to the frame away from the moving wheel. Then in a safe clear space test the bike and see if the noise is present. Carefully apply the front brake to slowly come to a stop.
Depending on what noise we hear, we can better determine what the issue is and the fastest resolution. It may be that the motor internals need to be replaced. The motor internals, or motor stator can be installed as one piece, by removing the rear wheel and then removing the 6 screws around the cassette or freewheel. The axle bolts will have to be completely removed for the motor cover to open up.
Once opened, the motor internals, or stator, can be pulled out as one piece and replaced.