Hydraulic brakes are a closed system and typically need very little maintenance, so don’t worry—most soft or squishy brake issues are quick to diagnose and resolve. Most Ride1Up models come with hydraulic brakes and while generally very reliable, they still require some regular maintenance to keep them working as best as possible. Maintenance for hydraulic brakes can include replacing your brake pads and rotors periodically as well as bleeding the hydraulics to remove any air from the system.
All hydraulic brake systems are very similar so regardless of the brand brakes on your bike, this article will go over what the process of brake bleeding is, when it should be done, and how to bleed brakes.
Brake Bleeding Basics
When you pull the brake levers on your bike a piston will push hydraulic fluid through the hosing to the brake caliper which will then push the pads into the brake rotor and slow the bike. This is a sealed system but under real world conditions and use, air can work its way into the system. Unlike hydraulic fluid, air is compressible and a small amount of air in the system can cause the brakes to feel or function poorly. The process of bleeding brakes removes all air from the hydraulic system and replaces it with new fluid.
Generally, the brake pads and rotors should be the first thing you look into if you are experiencing issues with your brakes.
After checking your pads and rotors, a brake bleed could be something to try if you are experiencing any of the following:
- The brake lever pulls all the way to the handlebar but does not slow the bike.
- The brake lever feels squishy or spongy when pulled.
- Routine replacement of hydraulic fluid. We recommend replacing the fluid every 1-2 years for best results.
Brake bleeds are something you can do at home but they do require some specialized tools. These tools can be found from online retailers like Amazon or any local bike shop and are usually not very expensive.
Tools Required:
- Bicycle specific bleed kit: All models are compatible with Shimano or Tektro fittings*
- Hydraulic fluid: All models use Mineral oil*
- Metric hex wrenches
**The CF Racer1 is the one exception to the above and uses SRAM style fittings, and DOT fluid.**
Lever Bleed
A lever bleed only consists of removing any air bubbles from the lever assembly on the handlebars and the upper portion of the hydraulic hosing. The process for a lever bleed is much easier than a full bleed and we find that this is all that is needed for 90% of the brake issues we see. This is a great place to start if you are new to bleeding brakes and will likely resolve your issue.
Here is a great video that walks you through the process of lever bleeds:
Full Bleed
A full brake bleed would involve flushing the entire hydraulic system with new fluid and removing all of the air bubbles from the lever, hosing, and caliper. This process is a little more involved than a lever bleed but is not too hard with some practice.
Situations that may require a full bleed rather than a lever bleed could be:
- Routine replacement of the hydraulic fluid
- A lever bleed failed to resolve the issue
- You notice excessively dark fluid while attempting a lever bleed
Here is a great video that goes over the full bleed procedure for any hydraulic brake:
Final notes
Bleeding hydraulic disc brakes is a important part of bicycle maintenance that can be done at home with the right tools and knowledge. This is also something that bike mechanics see on a daily basis and is standard across all brands of brakes so you can always find further assistance from a local mechanic if needed. Feel free to reach out to our knowledgeable customer support team if you have any questions about brake bleeds.
