Assembly Video


Assembling with the help of the video guide is the recommended method to reduce questions or issues with assembly. Please refer to the manual for additional resources. 



Preassembly Tips and Advice

  • If you are uncomfortable with bike mechanics, it is best to have it assembled by a bike shop or expert.
  • You will remove all small parts from the fork steerer tube prior to installing the fork. 
  • The headset construction is historically the most difficult part for many customers.
    • Pro tip: doublecheck the fork section of the assembly video for proper construction.
  • There is a plastic spacer supporting the front brake caliper between the brake pad area. Note that squeezing the brake lever without the spacer or front wheel brake rotor installed will clamp the pistons closed. It is recommended to save the spacer to use anytime you remove the front wheel (i.e. placing bike in the back of an SUV for transportation).
  • Avoid touching the brake rotor with your fingers. The natural oil present on your hands will contaminate the rotors, reducing braking efficacy and create a loud whining pitch when braking. 
  • Apply grease to the pedal threads and fork steerer tube before installation. 
  • Do not tighten or loosen the bottom bracket cups, the sensitive wiring of the torque sensor may be damaged if trying to adjust or remove the bottom bracket. If the bottom bracket needs to be removed for cleaning or be replaced, please visit our LMT'D Torque Sensor Removal/Replacement solution.


Assembly Basics

  • Crank Arms

    • Ensure the crank arms are facing opposite directions from each other in a 180° orientation. Do not tighten the crank bolt until you are certain they are in proper positioning. A special tool is required to remove the crank once it is installed.

  • Left Pedal

    • The left pedal is reverse threaded and must be installed on the left side of the bike (without chainring). To install it, properly align it in the left crank insert and rotate counterclockwise by hand. If threaded correctly, it will not require any force to hand tighten. Once hand tight, use a wrench to the flat edge of the pedal insert to tighten fully.

  • Right Pedal

    • The right pedal is standard threaded and must be installed on the right side of the bike (with chainring). To install it, properly align in the right crank insert and rotate clockwise by hand. If threaded correctly, it will not require any force to hand tighten. Once hand tight, use a wrench on the flat edge of the pedal insert to tighten fully.

  • Cable Routing

    • Before installing your fork, inspect the wire and cable routing; match the orientation as shown in the video. The wires should not cross over or you will damage the electrical components of your new bike. 

  • Fork

    • Ensure the fork is oriented correctly once the steerer tube is routed up through the headtube. The brake caliper mount will be on the left side of the bike (without chainring). Check the headset spacers order in the video for more information.

  • Brake Cable

    • Route the brake cable around to the inside of the fork to keep it safe when riding, storing, and transporting the bike. Note: you may need to adjust the angle of the brake levers.

  • Handlebars

    • The levers should be facing forward and angled slightly (approximately 45°)  towards the ground in order to comfortably squeeze them. You will want to maintain good grip and control on the handlebars when braking. If you have hand and/or forearm pain while braking, the brake levers are either angled too high or too low. A good way to test this is to rest your fingers on the brake lever; if your forearm muscle is tensed instead of relaxed, the brake lever angle needs to be adjusted.

  • Headlight

    • This will mount onto the bridge of the fork after the fork is fully installed. The fender shares this bolt, and the headlight gets mounted flush against the bridge of the fork with the fender bracket behind it (touching the bolt and washer).

  • Tail Light

    • This will mount onto the rear fender. The wire is taped to the outside of the fender so that it remains in place during shipping. The plug is straight at the bottom and rounded at the top, be sure to properly match these ends when inserting into the back of the light assembly. Secure with the nut provided in the small parts box using the 8mm socket wrench provided with the bike. The rear fender does not need to be removed to secure the nut from the underside of the fender.

  • Fenders

    • As stated above, the front fender shares the headlight bolt and gets mounted behind the headlight bracket (touching the bolt head and washer). The rear fender comes partially installed; the support arms need to be attached by sharing the rear axle safety tab bolts.


Headset Assembly

Note: proper installation of the headset will avoid damage or injury while riding the ebike.

Pro tip: rewatch the assembly video headset section in 1/4 speed to follow the steps carefully.

  • Steerer Tube

    • Carefully install the fork steerer tube, making sure it is seated with the lower bearing at the bottom of the head tube. Only the crown race (which is not removeable) should be on the fork steerer tube at this time.

  • Compression Ring

    • Once the fork is installed through the head tube, place the compression ring on the top of the fork steerer tube. Slide it down to insert inside the top of the headtube. When seated correctly, this ensures the steerer tube is properly centered. This may take some adjustment to seat it perfectly. 

  • Cone Spacer

    • Next, slide the cone spacer onto the steerer tube. Confirm the dust cover is attached to the cone spacer. This will ensure dust and debris do not enter the headtube. 

  • Stem Spacers

    • Slide remaining spacers onto the steerer tube.

  • Stem

    • Remove the stem from the handlebars and insert it onto the steerer tube. Do not tighten any hardware.

  • Top Cap and Bolt

    • Place the top cap over the stem and carefully tighten the top cap bolt until you begin to feel slight resistance when rotating the fork.

  • Proper Headset Installation

    • Confirm that the fork turns smoothly.

    • Confirm that the fork does not shift up or down relative to the head tube.
    • If the fork shifts within the headtube, grinds while turning, or gives resistance to turning, reverse steps and ensure you have installed all parts in the order shown in the assembly video. If you need any help with this, our Customer Support Team would be more than happy to assist.

  • Tighten Stem Hardware

    • Tighten the 2 pinch bolts on the stem where it connects to the steerer tube. Alternate tightening them to ensure even torque. Then, carefully and slowly tighten the 4 bolts that attach the handlebars to the stem. Use a "star" pattern with even spacing, and do not over tighten or you will damage the stem. 

  • Final Check

    • Ensure there is no "play" in the fork. If the fork is properly seated and tightened, the fork should not shift up and down relative to the head tube of the frame. 


Chainring, Splined BB Tool, and Crank Arms

If unsure, do not install your crank arms. Removing crank arms after installing them requires a crank puller. The chainring has been removed to avoid damage during shipping. For more information, check out our Chainring Installation Resource.


The following tools are needed to install the chainring, crank arms, and pedals:

  • BBT-22 Bottom Bracket Tool

    • This tool has 20 splines despite the '22' in the name. This tool is shipped with your bike. You will need an adjustable wrench or large socket to use it. 

  • 8mm Hex Wrench

    • This tool is included in the hex wrench set that is shipped with your bike and is required to tighten the crank arm bolts

  • Thin 15mm wrench (or thin adjustable wrench)

    • This tool is needed to further tighten the pedals once threaded by hand. Using a wrench that is too thick will damage the crank arms. 


The chainring will slide onto the bottom bracket. The spider lock ring is reverse threaded; it secures the chainring before the crank arm is installed. It should be tightened to approximately 36nm, and no less than 35nm. You will need to hold the non-drive side crank arm still while tightening the spider lock ring.


Post Assembly Tuning and Safety Check

  • Index your derailleur and verify the hanger is straight
    • Failure to index the derailleur by setting the H & L limit screws may cause damage to the rear wheel, motor cable, motor, derailleur, derailleur hanger, and/or spokes.
  • Ensure your brakes are adjusted and bedded
    • Brake calipers must be adjusted to perform up to specification. Note that new brake pads need to go through a bedding process, and may make noise when braking until they are bedded.
  • Double check your cable routing
    • Matching cable routing as shown in the assembly video will reduce stress on wiring and avoid out-of-warranty damage to ebike components.
  • Power up the LMT'D V2 before pedaling
    • If pedaling while the system powers on, the torque sensor will be seat to "0" and will not provide pedal assist. If this occurs, simply power the bike off and on again ensuring you are not pedaling while doing so.


Changing Class Settings

The LMT'D V2 will arrive out-of-the-box in Class 2. To change the classes, hold both the UP and DOWN buttons for 2 seconds. This will bring you to the settings landing page. Select 'Display Setting' by short pressing the POWER button, then scroll down to 'Speed Limit' and press the POWER button to highlight 'CLASS2'. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change to 'CLASS3'. Press POWER button for 2 seconds to save the settings and exit the menu.

  • Class 2: top speed of 20mph with both pedal assist and throttle.
  • Class 3: top speed of 28mph with pedal assist and 20mph with throttle.